In a story titled “An Attempt to Compile a Short History of the Buffalo Chicken Wing,” Time magazine columnist and author Calvin Trillin reports that the origin of Buffalo chicken wings–fried chicken wings smothered in Frank’s RedHot brand pepper sauce–was the Anchor Bar on Main St. in Buffalo.

In the official version, the late Frank Bellissimo, owner of the bar, received an order of chicken wings instead of the usual chicken necks and backs he used for his spaghetti sauce. Not wanting to waste the wings he asked his wife Teresa to figure out something to do with them and she created the now familiar delicacy.

Acting as an historian instead of humorist, Trillin discovered another story that explained the invention. Franks’ son, Dom, who was working at the bar, was looking for something to pass around to some of the bar’s regulars and asked his mother to whip something up. In this story Teresa Bellissimo again went off to the kitchen and came up with the wings.

No matter which story is true, we have to thank Teresa Bellissimo, the true inventor, for Buffalo chicken wings.

Trillin’s story is reprinted in his book Third Helpings, 1983, Ticknor & Fields, New York.